Thursday, 3 April 2014

Summer madness.

Sunrise
It's summer time again and by this the first thing that comes to my mind is sweat, Sun and shades.
It's summer time again and by this the first thing that comes to my mind is sweat, Sun and shades.
Calcutta as I still like to call it, is known for the horrendous heat and the scorching rays of the sun which kind off penetrates into your body and burns it. But I enjoy summers as I get to see a lot of things that I don't witness in winters. It's like during summers everybody is 24/7 possessed by the demons and are ready to fight at the drop of a hat.I get on a bus to Topsia and its kind off empty and then I get a seat and settle down beside the window. I was so lost in the little hot air that was hitting my face that I didn't even realize that the bus now was fully packed, till my serene communication with the breeze was broken by the shouts of a middle-aged
lady. গায়ে হাথ দিচ্ছ কান was what she was saying and my eyes went busy searching for the culprit only to
find a small little fellow maybe is his late teens looking at the lady with shocked expression. In the blink of an eye everyone started shouting wanting to get their hands on the guy. By this story I here by justify my earlier point that summers get Calcuttans so mad that in a bus where you can hardly move, a lady expects to get a private cabin where no-one can touch her and people support her rather than someone getting up and letting her sit.
The condition of buses
Heaven knows why even the traffic goes haywire during this season. All the signals seems to be stuck at RED for unimaginably long minutes. This is the time that reminds me of the Summer Solstice that my Geography teacher had taught me in school. But it said the days are longer in summers... no one mentioned about a minute seeming to be as long as a century. I feel I am sounding like a girl so much in love and who is referring to every minute away from her beloved to be unimaginably long. This is exactly the time when all the people in the bus suddenly start talking as if they have known each other forever. They start cursing the police, the government and everything, but I will never get why they abuse the bus driver. The poor man is just abiding by the traffic norms. "ইচ্ছে করে বাস তা থামিয়ে রেখেছে বদমায়েশ লোক তা" is what most of the people will say. But then this is what summer does to my city people, and yes to be honest at times to me also. During the summer months also I have regular college, that is from 9.30 a.m. in the morning to 3.30 p.m. in the afternoon. But thanks to my dad who pays a nice heavy sum of money to send me to a college
which is centrally air conditioned that I am at least spared during the hours I have classes.
Tea Stall
But then I'm a Calcuttan after all. The dirty tea shop outside kind of has this weird magnetic attraction.I feel like a fridge magnet and the shop seems to be the fridge and I just have to go there after every class. But then going to such small roadside shops have given me so much of information that I can today write a blog on my lovely humid city.I am nicely sitting on the thin half dead wooden plank which is supported on both sides by huge uneven boulder kind of stones and every time a person gets up or shifts you feel it... I mean literally feel it. So here I am sipping my lovely গরম জল (yes the tea here genuinely tastes like warm water) and taking in the heat and thinking and wishing that it might just rain when a guy next to me does some movement and breaks my thoughts. I see this lanky fellow wearing flashing orange denims paired with an equally flashing green t-shirt, yellow shoes and not to forget the shiny mirror shades that are pink in color. I kept staring at him involuntarily and my eyes were just about to pop out of my eye socket when that guy finally asked me কিছু বলবেন আপনি ? And I felt I was broken off by some kind of spell cast on me... and the only reply I could give him was না ??
Sunglasses

Yes you got it right... in Calcutta everyone is wearing an unusual shaped sun glass in the most horrific color you can imagine. But even after this if you ever have had mountain dew and thought डर के आगे जीत है and just dared to ask question them about the shades, there comes the answer.... আপনি কি জানেনে এ চশমা তা দীপিকা পাদুকনে ককটেল ছবি তে পরে চেল  and you are left either comparing both the two people in account or just leave thinking Dude she's Deepika Padukone. I mean seriously. ..??


But still summers have its own magic. The new clothing trend for girls has become a boon
So let's just welcome summer with shades and the madness out here only continues. Calcutta has seen a radical change when it comes to clothing. All high end brands have opened up stores in here.Starting from hot pants, vests, asymmetrical dresses, lace bodycons and the list is never ending. Females in Calcutta have emerged as one of the greatest shoppers. First it was all about new market but now it’s all about malls.

Sunday, 30 March 2014

Maach, Mishti & HIstory...

"মাছের ঝোল আর ভাত " (fish curry and rice)..!!!  Yes, this is somewhat the staple diet of almost all the Bengalis in Calcutta. People out here just can't survive without মাছ (fish) and rice is eaten even at breakfast.
Calcuttans have a weird notion that they should always leave home with a filled stomach. Totally agreed, but having rice in the morning itself makes you lethargic. Yet, this is the trend going on in this city of joy for centuries and that's what makes us who we are.
Fish holds a very special place in Bengal's heart. You got to have fish in basically all the ceremonies out here. Starting from birthdays, weddings, parties to even শ্রাদ (funerals). Fishes ranging from Ilish, Hilsa, Pompret, Katapona, Shukto Maach, Chingri and heaven knows what not. You just name it and we have it.
Coming to our specialty of মিষ্টি (sweets)... hmmm... what do I say about it. Every second person you meet has a sweet tooth. People compare good looks with sweets here! "কি মিষ্টি দেখতে " is one of the most common dialogue you will come across in here. Our specialty of Rosogullas and Mishti doi and the craze for it is just mad. I feel this is some tradition that has been going on for centuries. Having Mishti doi in bandhs or clay cups after supper only completes the meal. And you can't blame people cause the doi tastes just so tasty and irresistible.
I have never been able to understand this craze but i must tell you everyone else out here does. People from all over the world come here, taste the sweets and go crazy and then carry loads and loads of mishti back home.
When we talk about rossogullas then how can we forget K.C.Das. Everyone is just mad about the rosogullas they provide. Their patent red tinned cans of rossogullas makes every bengali and anyone develop a sweet tooth
Starting from celebrities to politicians, there's not one person who hasn't come here and taken back sweet memories of the sugar sweet city.





Changing Infrastructure

Calcutta, till a few years ago was a typical city with its share of high-rises, good and bad roads, eateries, etc. It was not a state of the art or a hi-tech city like the other Metropolitan cities in the country. The buildings here were mostly four to six storeyed with a few high-rises here and there. People wanting to go out for movies went to the good old cinema halls and saw movies on the "Single Screen" theaters. That was a different kind of feeling altogether. May it be standing in the never ending queue for tickets or buying chips and china baadam as munchies to munch on during the movies.It was so much more less technological and the cheers which everyone broke into the moment the hero got the heroine has now become an offense in the multiplexes. Have we advanced or have we Calcuttans in the process of modernisation forgotten our roots and just blindly followed the other cities like Bombay and Hyderabad and in the process lost our innocence and culture?
Howrah Bridge
We have wonders like Howrah Bridge and Victoria Memorial and still we compare our city of joy with others and criticize. .. is it justified?Why do we have this typical notion about our own city? Is it because it has lost its glory?But we in a way have given people reason to talk about us. Remember the Ultadanga flyover whose one part just broke and fell off? Also how the broken part was left there for innumerable days?
Ariel view of the broken Ultadanga flyover
Still I somewhere feel Calcutta still has the charm. If you go North it feels like you have entered a different world altogether. Beautiful old houses, palaces and the infrastructure out there mirror the lavish culture and lifestyle Calcutta once had. Though all are not very well maintained but you can still see the past glory, the rich infrastructure and the lavish babu lifestyle.

Thursday, 6 February 2014

My city has changed.... and how?

Calcutta to Kolkata

50 years ago - Huge ships at River Hooghly
Introduction

Calcutta as it was known then, was made up by combining three villages that predated the arrival of the British, one of them being  Kolikata  (Bengali: কলিকাতা), where the city eventually was to be established; the other two villages were Sutanuti and Govindapur.  It is a popular belief that the city was founded by Job Charnock in 1690, but I believe the foundation of Calcutta was laid much before, hence the name of the city and its actual date of birth will always be disputed.


Lets fast forward to years closer to our independence, as I will be looking closely to Calcutta during the British era while comparing it to where we stand today.


 Reality Check


Chowinghee 2000
Calcutta's heritage of old parks and buildings can be compared to the first European cities, but unfortunately we may soon lose these public treasures, which has and would have made generations of residents proud of their city. It is time we took a reality check. There are some heritage buildings that have been well maintained and so the credit must be given to the concerned authorities and individuals. Some buildings and parks, which are part of the 300 year old city's heritage are in urgent need of a face-lift as they lie in their neglected state. The blame has to be shared between the civic authorities as well as the citizens. We simply do not put pressure on the concerned authorities. These neglected sites will turn into ruined structures and then demolished to be replaced by modern structures or unplanned construction.

Chowringhee, the central district of Calcutta has often been compared to internationally known city centers such as Piccadily, Fifth Avenue, Champs Elysees, etc.

And now?

The year 1990 marked Calcutta's tercentenary- a major landmark in the history of the city and there is a growing interest in India's unparalleled architectural heritage, and we should take advantage of it to promote tourism. One of the Calcutta's principal arteries, Chowringhee carries an aura of prestige and importance. Although dowdier these days than it's more illustrious partners, Chowringhee no less exudes similar allure and magnetism in it's eastern setting. Whether we, as the present inhabitants of this great city share a collective responsibility to restore the reputation it once enjoyed, is a question we need to ask ourselves before it's too late.


Lal Salaam from longest serving CM
There was a time not long ago when travelling through the streets of Calcutta was an unending political conversation.  It was a heyday of political street graffiti, with large wall paintings of a red flag on which marched sickle carrying peasants or bold announcements of the next rally at the Brigade Parade Ground. In 2011, the people of West Bengal, voted for a change. After 34 years it voted out the left front and chose, in it's place, a grassroots leader who signature tuned, ironically, also happened to be 'struggle'. Not since Subhas Chandra Bose, became the last leader and the stuff of legend, had Bengal reposed such absolute trust in one individual. Among the first things to strike a visitor to Mamata Banerjee's Kolkata is it's steady incorporation into the melting pot of Indian urbanisation. What had made Kolkata distinctive in the past was  it's congestion, the over crowding, the inhumanity of the city life, the disruptions, the stench from garbage mountains, power-cuts, pot-holes,etc. It's also an image of that refuses to away. Now, for the average middle class resident, the city has become a rather attractive place to live in. The new Chief Minister's contribution has not been insignificant. Thanks to the trishul shapes lamp posts installed on the main roads and even side streets, Kolkata must surely count among the best lit cities in India. Coupled with the improvement in the quality of the roads, an elaborate metro network and the mushrooming of modestly priced flats all over the city, Kolkata is experiencing a new normal, centered on the re-establishment of civic order: if a ruling Trinamool Congress MP's claim is to be believed, the administration has pressed into service 14000 people to clean the streets on Kolkata everyday. The Christmas lights reappeared in Park Street last year, there's always a wait for the table at Mocambo, Shiraz at the Park Street crossing has undergone a face lift and club life is booming.

Even the College Street Coffee House has changed. The Chief Minister did not create the change.

Victory for TMC
The transformation had begun to be evident in the last years of the left front. Her advent and her over-stated claim of turning Kolkata into another London have reinforced a pre-existing trend. Kolkata today is embracing normally with infectious enthusiasm. The Chief Minister attached importance to the entry of the open, 'English medium educated Bengalis with contemporary, cosmopolitan sensibilities into films and theatres.' Yet, it is impossible to escape from politics altogether. Bengal is probably the only part of India where public intellectuals are not only taken seriously but also perceive themselves to be politically consequential. The CPI(M)'s excesses in Nandigram and Singur first brought the public intellectuals into the limelight and they certainly played a major role in undermining the legitimacy of the left front and transforming the image of Mamata Banerjee from a stormy petrel to that of a liberator. This was all too good to last for long.


Mamata Banerjee
The Park Street rape case and the arrest of a Jadavpur University lecturer proved to be the flash point of estrangements. From being liberator, she was abruptly dubbed fascist and denounced in protest rallies and TV studios. The chief minister still continues to enjoy the confidence of those who seek to use her tenure to detoxify the state's institutions. The Mentor Group entrusted with restoring the quality of Presidency University has functioned without political interference but there is a fear that the present wave of the negative publicity may actually deter intellectuals from abandoning their posts over seas and return to Bengal hoping instant for results is unrealistic. The chief minister made a laughing stock of herself at an investor's meet by taking a role call of the assembled industrialists and demanding to know whether or not they will invest their money in Bengal. After what happened to the Tata's in Singur, it is unlikely that the state will ever be the first choice of manufacturing industry. The mentality of the state has undergone a definite shift from the earlier days but there are still some people who see every capitalistic venture as a blood sucking exercise. Their numbers maybe small but their capacity for obstruction is inconsiderable. In Kolkata, ambition invariably takes second place to the quality of life, with lots of stability of culture.

Calcutta began life as East India's Company's foremost trading outpost. Today, it is trade and it's ancillary services that keeps the city vibrant. The present chief minister is not a great champion of capitalism as a historical process and unlikely our ex chief minister Buddhadeb Bhattacharjee, she hardly understands Marxism. No wonder, Rabindranath Tagore and not Karl Marx, has remained the guiding force for a city that is rediscovering it's lost soul.

New Market/Stuart Hogg (about 1945)
East India Company came several times to Bengal for trade only to be chased, wiped and beaten out of here, yes you got me right, the People who ruled us for several  years were once thrown out by us only to rule over us later. Their first visit to the then rich and famous Bengal was at the time of Delhi Emperor Jahangir.

I couldn’t stop laughing when I came across the reason behind how because of the kind hearted behavior of some rulers led us to be ruled over by the firangs for so many years. The story went something like this, the daughter of the Emperor was severely burnt and a doctor, Mr. Boughton from Surat successfully treated  her burns and in reward the Emperor allowed the company to establish factory at Pipili, leading to English ships arriving at the Bengal ports for the first time, or should I say the first nail in the coffin
.

Shah Jahan
During 1638, under Shah Jahan’s rule Boughton was again used to treat one of the ladies in the palace, and in return, the company was allowed to establish factories in Balasore and Hooghly in addition to Pipili. It seems like had the people in that era been more healthy and careful to not fall sick and burn themselves, we wouldn’t have ever been ruled over for years to come. But who knew that Dr Boughton’s services would be so expensive that it would cost us our freedom.


Compare it to our present state, we are not under the rule of any British or for that case any other Country but have we actually developed or has our condition deteriorated??

I would support the latter.

For a place like Bengal, with so much history behind it, we have witnessed a sea change over the years. Kolkata, formerly known as Calcutta, was the capital of British Indian Empire till 1911. The city is also noted for its revolutionary history raging from India’s struggle for independence to the leftism naxalite and trade union movements. It was also home to prominent people like Sarada Devi, Swami Vivekananda, Rabindranath Tagore and Subhas Chandra Bose, etc. Now, whether we look at our rich culture, human values, social values, everything seems to have gone for a toss. It is debatable whether these changes have taken us forward or pulled us many years backwards, compared to other states and cities of India.
Bengal, of the past used to be a very rich and prosperous state. It used to be said “What Bengal thinks today, India thinks tomorrow.” We used to be the leaders, while the rest used to follow. Sadly, everything seems to be opposite now. Bengal has become a debt ridden state heading nowhere. Agriculture, the backbone of any forward moving state has suffered the most.  From being a self sufficient state we now have to depend upon others for our needs. Lack of planning, lack of far sightedness has led to this mess. Youth from villages have left for greener pastures due to lack of opportunities. We have to hold the panchayat system as well as their political masters responsible for this mess.

In the capital city of West Bengal, Calcutta the situation seems to be more or less similar. Earlier people from other parts of India would come to Calcutta to earn a living. Today, due to lack of proper planning, lack of investments, poor government policies, unemployment is at all time high, skilled as well as non skilled workers are moving away to other states as well as to abroad to seek a better future. The government of the day has failed to attract investors due to its land policy, labor problems and petty politics. The government has to immediately rectify its mistakes and make the state an attractive investment destination or we will see a continuous brain drain from our city.

From being the safe capital of the country we have acquired the dubious reputation of being the rape capital of the country. West Bengal ranks second in the list of crimes committed against women. Earlier it used to be said that a women could travel anywhere in the city and not fell unsafe. In the recent past there has been a phenomenal amount of crimes and atrocities committed on women in the state as well as in the city. In the maximum number of cases the perpetrators of these crimes get away scott free as they are affiliated to some political party or the other. The administrators have to take strong steps to stop crimes of this nature. Social values in our society seem to have eroded completely. We have to instill fear in the minds of these kinds of people.

The divide between the rich and the poor seems to have widened deeply. On one hand we have the people who do not have to worry about savings, while there are people who hardly have anything to save. The middle class people seem to be nonexistent. They are either moving to the top or to the other extreme, thus widening the gap between the two classes.

We can go on and on about the fall from grace of our state and city but hopefully there is a glimmer of hope still flickering somewhere. An ex Prime Minister once remarked that Bengal was a dying state. It caused huge protests in the state. It is most unfortunate that those remarks are slowly but surely coming true.

Let us all resolve to work hard without thinking of personal gains and restore our city Calcutta to its earlier glory.